Gozo

Azure Window

 

Breakfast is the most important meal of the day. Or so they say. Since it was included in the price, we started the day in the restaurant. It had a a great terrace overlooking the bay, so from day 1 it became our regular place.

The view was the best. Food was ok, nothing extra special. They had everything a Brit would want, bacon, baked beans, even black pudding , another reminder of the past.

Our day was to be spent touring the island of Gozo. A bus came to pick us up half an hour late ( maltese time :) ) and took us to Cirkewwa, the port the ferries use.

Very organized, efficient, easy way of buying and boarding the ferry. Bit crowded, next to a very noisy British pensioner with her two daughters.

Short, uneventful trip, just the scorching heat was bothering us a bit. Getting of the ferry the Maltasightseeing bus was waiting for us.

Gozo, the island of Calypso. Where the Goddess of Calypso cast her spell on Ulysses when he was washed ashore. Kept him with her till Zeus sent Hermes to rescue him after 7 years. Or at least this is how the story Odyssey goes.

It is a small island (smaller than Madeira :) , 14km by 7 km. Supposed to be much greener than Malta island itself, but it was not the case however here. It has been particularly dry this year. Still quite enchanting with its lovely coastlines, beaches, incredibly beautiful buildings, churches.

This is where the oldest free standing structures of the world , the largest megalith to be found. Called GGantija Temples, a spectacluar scene, not to be missed.

Of course there is a legend to this. How a gigantic woman carried these stones on her head, while her baby was on her back, with broad beans in her pocket which she ate while on the go.

Must have been a sight. :)

Not far from the Temples we saw the Windmill, on the highest point on the Xaghra plateau.

Unfortunately our time was so limited, so there were spots we could not afford to get off. Even though there was a new bus at every 30 minutes, but still the time was so short.

So we missed the Calypso cave, Xlendi , Xewkija, The Craft Village, Fontana.

We did stop for a few minutes (almost missed the bus ) at the Savina Creativity Centre. While Mum was busy standing in line at a certain place frequented by ladies, I strolled around the shop, admiring the local pottery, the lovely scented hand made candles, the olive oils, jars full of spices, pates, the sweets, cakes made out of dried fruits. Too bad that this was early on our route. Would have been better on the way back. This way, very few people bought anything. Who wants to carry things around all day with them?

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Around lunch time we reached Victoria, the “capital” of Gozo. Locally known as Rabat. Very, very charming. Old limestone buildings, narrow alleyways, the square with its restaurants and church of course.

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Decided to have our lunch here. My Mum was eager to try out some local food, so she ordered rabbit stew, I had some kind of ravioli filled with ricotta cheese. As an appetizer we had some local bread with tomato and olive oil.

Italian influence strongly felt in their cuisine as well.

Eating local food ticked.

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Another must was the Citadel, in Victoria. It has been built in the middle of Gozo. Most of the buildings are in ruins by now, but some are still being used as the Law Courts of Gozo. We were free to wander around without having to buy a ticket. Did not have time to go in to visit the Old Prison, the museums and the Cathedral. Prefer nature anyways. From high above there was no limit to the eye, we could see from coast to coast, the small houses, churches, lands, vineyards. Awesome.

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While waiting for the bus we did find a “garden” and next to it a beautiful apartment complex. Putting the garden word with quotation marks because their gardens are not very green. Some trees and shrubs , but I assume by September the scorching heat of the summer has killed most of the flowers. But it is still a place to sit and relax a bit.

My second most memorable place came next, Dwejra with the oh so famous Azure window, the Inland Sea and the Fungus rock.

it is located on the north-western coast of Gozo. It is a natural archway in the sea, the locals call it The Window.

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First, we just admired the view from above, watching the little motorboats going in and out, birds flying. But once we walked down to the Inland Sea we couldn’t just leave without going out on a boat. Luckily only 2 of us were on it, the guy pointing out the Fungus Rock, the crocodile shape stone on top, the incredibly blue water. Couldn’t believe how blue it was.

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Getting back after our few minutes boat ride we just soaked our tired feet in the cool water on the beach, walking on pebble stones while eating an ice cream. And yes, even here we found a Hungarian guy.

Despite of skipping so many sights we still got to the Mgarr Harbour late. Going back was much more pleasant, hardly any people on the ferry.

Upon arriving at Cirkewwa we realised that we have missed our transfer to the hotel. A nice enough guy tried to call us a taxi, but we were supposed to wait for half an hour.

So we used the public transport, bus 222 going to Sleima. By the time we got close to home, it was already dark, but luckily managed to get off almost at the right spot.

The wind was getting stronger. Opted to eat at the italian place in the hotel. Delicious risotto and a glass of wine and straight to bed. I was beat. We were beat.

Valletta comes tomorrow.

To be continued…

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