11th of July

Not proud of myself. Too lazy to get out of bed early, that dinner did it. Instead just took my coffee down to the garden. Was about to relax holding the steaming mug of frothy drink in my hands, letting the morning sunshine warm my stiff body, still groggy with sleep, when I let out a scream. This was the last place on earth I would expect to see this. A cockroach! Here! In Madeira!

The first time on the island I was told that there are no bugs here whatsoever, no cockroaches, flies, mosquitoes, ticks. So far I believed them. The past four times never encountered any of them, even though we had the windows, doors open with the lights on, it was incredible. They told us that it is mainly because of the Eucalyptus trees. They must be giving up off a vapor bugs don’t like. It is true, the eucalyptus oil is widely used as a natural insect repellent. If this theory is right, then the Bay Area, close to the ocean should be a haven for the bugs, don’t see that many eucalyptus trees there.
This time however is different. My son’s whole body is covered with mosquito bites, poor thing believes that the entire mosquito population is feasting on his blood at night. Lots of flies at the Ritz, guess it is that time of the year.
Did ask about the cockroaches though at the reception. We were told not to worry, the big ones are harmless and they can fly, this is how they got into our house. Still not very happy about the flying cockroaches. Found a post, it says: ” There are cockroaches on the island, they are fairly large, but part of it’s beauty…”
Once I got over the shock, we went to see the Farmer’s Market, Mercado dos Lavradores in Funchal. It is more than just a vegetable and fruit market. It is a charming place. We visit it every single time we are here. It was designed by Edmundo Tavares in 1937.
It covers an area of 9600m2. The market’s main entrance is decorated with hand painted tiles called azulejos.
Inside you will find a wide variety of fresh fruits, vegetables, lots of flower shops selling seeds, bulbs as well. Did buy orchid bulbs last time, they must be still in the cellar, just remembered. If you go further in you will find the fish market, another favorite of mine. Love going down, enjoy the smell of ocean. Fish doesn’t smell bad. It has the fresh, salty smell of the sea. Saw some amazing pieces of tuna and the famous fish, the dish of espada is made of.
This fish is called the Black Scabbard Fish. They believe that it lives at least 600 meters below sea level. I was told by our tour guide on our first trip, that no one has ever seen this fish alive, quite a ghastly creature with huge teeth and entirely black. They believe that it turns black on it’s way up to the top of the sea as fishermen are bringing it in, because of the it’s blood vessels bursting due to the change of pressure. Who knows? It tastes delicious, hardly any cooking needed, got a very soft, white flesh. My favorite dish in Madeira served in a passion fruit sauce with banana on top. Tend to repeat myself, must have mentioned it earlier.
All these sights and smells got us hungry again. Had some bolo de Caco, with cheese. All the rest are with pork unfortunately ( bacon, ham).
It is their traditional bread, made with sweet potato and cooked above a wood fire. It’s on every single Portugese restaurant’s menu as an appetizer. Give me one of these with garlic butter on it, some olives and cheese and I am set. Add a glass of lovely Portuguese red wine to it (like Quinta do Carmo) and I am in heaven.
Found a great recipe for it, will try it back home. Planning to prepare a real Madeiran dinner for two. But where do I find a Black Scabbard Fish?
By late afternoon we were again by the pool, having water pistol fights with our son. That is what he enjoys most, not the walk, keep trying to get him to come on one of those levada walks, no luck so far.
But when I set my mind on something, I don’t give up.
Love sunsets, no matter where I am, which part of the world, that is my favorite time of the day. When everything slows down, the birds getting ready to sleep, the colors change. Oh God, love colors, do want to learn about photography, have this urge inside me to capture the beauty of every single second. Know it is impossible, but still trying.
The original plan was to go on a jeep tour, sunset gazing and candlelit dinner at the restaurant in the Choupana hills resort. But, and hear comes the but: Ex doesn’t want to be with others, doesn’t even want to talk anyone but us. I am not the kind of person who has lots of friends. Not that easy to get close to me. I am an introvert, been one since childhood, don’t think I will change. But by now I started to feel claustrophobic, having only Mish and ex around me to talk to. In the end I gave in, hired a car with a driver to take us up to Pico do Airero. It is the third highest peak of Madeira at 1818 m. The highest one is Pico Ruivo at 1862 m , this can be reached only by foot from Pico Airero. The second highest one lies between these two at an altitude of 1851 m.

We left at 8, the sunset was for 9.19.
First time we turned left as we left the gates of Palheiro. Finally something my son noticed. On the sides of the road were hydrangeas everywhere. Gorgeous blues, at some places almost 2 meter high, incredible beauties. We drove through eucalyptus forests, then came the pine forests. Kept looking left and right, trying to take in all the beauty around me. The higher we got up, the more barren the landscape became, saw loads of bushes with tiny yellow flowers. Must find out what they are. Got to the top much earlier. One thing I forgot. How cold it will be. There was a strong wind blowing. Wearing just a white linen short with a shirt on, was not the ideal clothing, but such a small thing was not going to stop me. The boys stayed for a few minutes, then went back to the car to wait for me there. Can’t blame them, it was very cold indeed.
Found the perfect spot, a huge rock to sit on. It was warmed up by the sun, felt nice against my skin. It was a sheltered place, all by myself. There were some French tourists a bit further up, didn’t bother me. Was all alone,on the top the world, my world, and it was coming. Was so lucky to be able to see it, the way the rays of sunshine colored everything orange, then purple. Everything fell silent as the sun dipped below the horizon, below the clouds. The day was almost over. Going down to the city we passed through the same forest, dark and mysterious, reminded me of home. Did get homesick for a while.
Down in the old town someone was singing “Thousand years” by Christina Perri. ” I have loved you for a thousand years, I’ll love you for a thousand more….”