27-28th of July

Do you ever get that feeling that time flies? Not particularly happy about it, only few more days left. On the other hand can’t wait to be home, so while part of me is already dreaming about walking through the garden with a coffee in my favorite Xmas mug, sun filtering through the branches of the oak trees, our little fox skipping around, birds singing, the other part of me is trying to slow down time, furiously taking more and more pictures, capturing every single moment, to be only relived at home on lonely, winter nights.

Another tick on my bucket list, a small tick: levada walk. After so many obstacles ( delayed because of Porto Santo trip, cancelled because of my hand injury, another cancellation for lack of interest), I was actually going on a levada walk.
Levadas are irrigation channels , that were constructed to collect and carry water to the whole of the island. The first ones were built in the 15th century, when the island was inhabited.
They vary in width, between 20-120 cm, and depth as well. Along the levadas paths were built for maintenance. Now, these paths are also used for walks.
So many ones to choose from. In the end I’ve picked the Rabacal 25 Fountains walk. Gave up on trying to get these two to come with me. I was glad they didn’t, not for them.
Pick up was right on time. At some point we switched to a bus, drove with 3 mountain guides, Anita, Miguel and Edgar. Started off at the plateau of Paul de Serra. Quick headcount( which she did regularly), brief info about how to always walk on the right side, close to the levada, stay away from the edge, then we set off. First few kilometers were pretty easy, wide paths lined by Heather, Common Broom, And Giant Dandelion. Now this one is one amazing plant. The flowers really do look like dandelion, but it is more like a small tree or a large bush. Could it be, that long long time ago this was a normal sized, ordinary dandelion, maybe the seeds brought over from England on a ship accidentally? Over years, decades, centuries due to the fertile soil and the amazing climate of Madeira this tiny little dandelion “mutated” into this?? I did a little search, found out that it is a Sow Thistle, and they can range between 30 cm to 200 cm. Well, the ones in Madeira are closer to the latter, if not bigger. On our way I saw daisies as well, way over one meter tall. The levada took us through a laurel and heather forest. It was magical, the trunks leaning across the path, the sun shining through the leaves, glistening on the water drops of morning dew still visible on them.
Saw foxgloves, orangey-pink, lovely geraniums, which I am very fond of. Got loads of them in my garden, they do very well in the shade. Lots of ferns along the levadas. We visited the Risco waterfall, then we descended to the Levada of 25 Fontes. Because it is summertime, we were warned ahead of time not to expect a Niagara fall, but it was still beautiful. Had some time to just sit on the rocks and have a sandwich. Perfect place, triggered another memory from my childhood. From year 5-8 we had an amazing biology-geography teacher. On the weekends we went on hiking with him, been to so many forests, mountains, waterfalls. Maybe this is when I fell in love with nature, the forests, the trails? I remember him fondly, taught me so much. How he would stop if he saw something interesting, ask us if we knew what that plant was, then telling us everything about it. Back then picking snow drops was not prohibited, usually that was our first hike after the long winter months, picking snowdrops, and having a snow ball fight often at the same time.
No snow drops here, “just” giant dandelions!
The paths were really narrow at points, managed to loose my footing on a slippery rock and fell on my right hand. So back to square one, stiff fingers coupled with swollen hand again. On our way back we had to go through a dark tunnel, with flashlights in hand, now there I was counting the steps. Found it really boring. Wish I had someone to walk and talk with. All the others were couples or families, I was the lonely lady who was always ahead or behind them taking macro photos of the flowers.The last bit through the eucalyptus trees was incredible! The humid air scented with eucalyptus, felt like walking through a gentle, natural sauna of some sort, inhale, exhale, taking in deep breaths. Seem to be doing this a lot here. Wish I could fill up every tiny little alveoli of my lungs with the scents of Madeira. If only I could bottle it, and take it home. Anyone interested in going into business with me?